The truth behind the lies...


It's always best to be wary and slightly suspicious, because most things can be made to sound far better than they really are.

I'm not disputing that Kiton make beautiful clothes in beautiful cloths, but it pains me to read articles like this one below that give the impression that things are done better than they really are, or should be.

Take a look here. 

It all sounds wonderful, but what are they really showing you?

The person writing the article says "what we witnessed there was the opposite, a complete rejection of automation. "


A complete rejection of automation! Really!




The first photo shows the collar, which has been machine padded on a padding machine (those little black stitches you see). Here we do this by hand, not machine.

Look closely at the white basting stitches on the chest. These have been done on a basting machine, which means the canvas has been attached by machine, not by hand as we would do in Savile Row.

I'm not saying it's badly done, it's just not what I would expect or accept at this level.


Here we see the lapel and the chest canvas. Again, all the pad stitching has been done by machine, not a single hand stitch in sight. The whole under-structure of the garment has been made on machine - this isn't real hand tailoring.

And when the writer said this.... "the shoulder itself is astoundingly complicated, comprised of numerous layers and hundreds of stitches binding the layers together." ...I almost fell off my chair.



Just how 'astoundingly complicated' is it to use ready made shoulder pads? All the photo really shows is someone sewing a fairly standard ready made shoulder pad to the machine constructed canvas. 

I have no objection to the use of ready made shoulder pads, they're often much better than most tailors attempts at making them up themselves from layers of wadding. 

What I do object to though, is the suggestion that this involves some incredible level of skill, or is in any way special.

Kiton's motto :  “The best of the best, plus one.”

It's not that their clothes aren't nicely made; their hand-finishing is beautiful, but their PR makes them sound like the finest craftsmen in the world, doing everything by hand, which just isn't the reality.

But then again, maybe perception is reality. 

Maybe it's me who is wrong. Maybe I should stop wasting my time doing everything by hand and instead spend the extra money making you think I do it by hand instead...

...Or would that just be cheating?

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