Choosing the right weight of cloth to go with your custom made dress shirts

Cloths come in weights ranging from 6 ounce cloths that you’d wear in a tropical climate to 20 ounce cloths that are virtually bulletproof! 11 ounce is a great all year round weight. When it comes to tailoring, different qualities of cloth are graded with super numbers, ranging from a super 80s to a super 240s. These numbers gauge the fineness of the hair that goes into the cloth. The higher the number the finer the hair and the more soft and silky the cloth will be, allowing for a greater level of detail, although this will naturally come at the expense of some durability.

Bear in mind that these figures only account for the width of the hair involved. They do not provide any indication as to the length of the hair, which is a major factor in determining the overall quality of a suit. For instance, it’s perfectly possible to buy a super 120s suit for £200, but as it won’t use the high-quality cloth the best merchants and weavers deliver, it will crease easily and will probably start looking old and tired before too long. On the other hand, if you want a top-of-the-range super 120 suit, it’s highly likely that the cloth involved will cost more than the average suit, but the end result will certainly justify this and do justice to your custom made dress shirts.

As you can imagine, with this sort of range, the weight and grade you choose will be determined by what you plan to wear your suit and custom made dress shirts for. For something long-lasting that you’re going to be wearing regularly, it’d be safest to opt for a slightly heavier cloth, whilst if you’re only going to be wearing your suit and custom made dress shirts on special occasions and are looking for something that instantly screams ‘quality’ you could opt for a higher grade fabric. Resist the temptation to cut corners in terms of cost when it comes to choosing a fabric, as it will almost always prove to be a false saving in the long run.

If you’d like to find out more, then request a free copy of my new booklet, “The Secrets to Looking Great in a Suit” available here.

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